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A journey into the port half a century ago

Approaching the port

As one approached the Port from seaward the steam Pilot boat T.H. Tilly would be at anchor or patrolling in Hartlepool or Tees bay ready to supply ships with their Pilots who would be transferred from her using a small motor boat. The ship on receiving her Pilot would then enter the “Roads” called thus as it was the approach to the buoyed channel; Longscar “Bell” buoy, marking the dangers of the Longscar reef, being passed to port. As one turned to starboard into the channel No.1 “Bar” buoy, which was lit during the hours of darkness with a white light, was passed, and during daytime the clank, clank of the steam Dredger Robert de Brus with its two attendant spoil hoppers, H.P. and H.C. numbers 4 and 6 could well be heard hard at work keeping the channel clear of silt and sand. The opposite buoy to “Bar” buoy was No.2 named “Duzzy” buoy by the old Pilots, as when West Harbour entrance was open it was a middle ground buoy and they said it made them dizzy which side to pass it. A blow on the whistle might be required to get the Dredger to heave clear of the channel to let shipping pass in safety before approaching the old “Pilots” pier, built in 1473, and having passed “Spit”, No.3 buoy, inside of which was “Peggy” the old beacon pole which had been a sea mark since the 16th century. On the port side Middleton jetty, also known as the “Banjo” or stone jetty, was passed and the ship now entered the inner channel. To starboard was “Ipswich” no.5 buoy named after a pub which once stood on the Town Wall opposite.

If ships were having the assistance of Tugs, they would now have made them fast, or be making fast. The tugs could be any of the N.E.R.’s numbers 2,3,4 or 6, or the William Gray, all twin screw steam driven. On approaching the actual docks, one passed on the Middleton side the Foyboatmen’s cabin, and next to it the lifeboat house, inside which was kept the Princess Royal. Next to the lifeboat slipway was the ferry landing, with “Bull” Boagey the ferryman rowing the ferryboat between the Middleton and Hartlepool landings, mostly carrying the workmen going and coming from the Headland to the works of William Grays,  “Richies” (Richardson Westgarth), or on the docks. The Hartlepool ferry landing had the lower of the two red lights on it which, when in line, led shipping into the harbour. Just beyond the Middleton landing was Withy’s dam which gave protection to Withy’s Quay (now known as Irvine’s Quay) and on which was the steam driven swan neck crane. This quay was originally where ships built locally had their engines and boilers, which were built by Richies, fitted, and was at this time mainly used to tranship machinery to other shipyards, mainly on the north east coast, although the odd ship built at the Furness yard on the River Tees was sometimes fitted out there.

The Fish Quay

On the opposite side of the harbour was the entrance to the Victoria Dock with, on the corner, the Dock Master’s office, recently demolished to make way for the Fish Quay refurbishment. This takes us nicely to the Fish Quay itself, where half a century ago you would probably see some of the Port’s steam trawlers, Friarage, Longscar, Kudos, Ben Tarbet, George D. Irvin or Loch Blair, all owned by Grahams, or seine netters among which were Sven Knud, or the 1888 built Prince Igor. You also might see a number of keelboats and cobles either landing fish or taking on supplies for the next trip, or they could be on the opposite side of the dock under the ice factory chute taking ice to keep their catches in prime condition. During the herring season “Drifters” would run into the quay, discharge their catches, and then be off again seeking the next shoal. The Fish Quay was at the south end, or to starboard, as you entered the dock, and at the other end, or to port, were the coal staithes; on the west side 17 and 18, 19 and 20 conveyors, and on the east side 25, 26, and 27 spouts. These latter were used mainly to load the smaller ships, like the small Scottish traders. Although always referred to as “puffers”, they were not the true Scottish variety who traded on the west coast; these ships took on board mainly household coal. The Port’s trawlers also bunkered here. Down the centre of the dock were two sets of mooring buoys where shipping could tie up to await their turn to load.

Entering the docks

Returning to the harbour, on the starboard side one would pass more coal loading appliances; from north to south 13, 14, 15 and 16 – these last two being where the larger ships loaded their cargoes. There were also two sets of mooring buoys in the harbour.  Directly ahead as you went up the harbour was the “Old Fish Quay”, the Port’s lightening berth (now the deep water berth). Equipped with two cranes, it was used to lighten ships to a draft which enabled them to enter the inner dock system. A ninety-degree turn to port, and the entrance to the inner docks through the North Basin was ahead of you with, to port, the remains of the Middleton shipyard slipways, and the entrance to Irvine’s dry dock occasionally used by small ships for repairs to their hulls ect. Incidentally, behind the Old Fish Quay was the wide expanse of water known as the Slake, used in the early days of the Port to sluice the entrance channel and so to keep it clear of silt and sand, so maintaining the depth of the water.

North Basin and Central Dock

On entering the enclosed docks (the entrance being 70 feet in width and spanned by a swing bridge which carried both rail and road traffic) we enter the North Basin. On the port side was a set of 80-ton sheer legs also used by Richies to lift machinery ect, and with an adjacent crane to carry out repairs on ship engines. On the starboard side was the Central Marine Engine Works’ 100-ton hammerhead crane used to engine, boiler and generally fit out Gray’s new buildings, the engine works being adjacent to this quay. Proceeding through the basin via Number 3 lock, we enter Central Dock. Immediately to starboard was Gray’s number 4 dry dock and, beyond it, the slipways where many fine ships were launched. At right angles to the slips was the quay known as Slag Island (slag being used as the foundation of the quay). This was used by Gray’s as an overflow quay on which ship repairs could be carried out afloat. Behind this quay were the timber ponds on which great rafts of timber floated during their seasoning process. On the port side of Central Dock was the quay known as the “Hydraulics”, so called because it was fitted with cranes powered by hydraulic machinery. Also on this quay was the huge number 8 warehouse. At the height of the timber season, when Union Dock was full, the occasional timber ship would be discharged here.

Union Dock, Coal Dock, Jackson Dock

On leaving Central Dock, again through an opening spanned by a swing bridge carrying road traffic only, we enter Union Dock. Directly to port was a short quay with two cranes and known as “G” and “H” quay. An odd cargo of bricks was sometimes unloaded there, and as it was near to the Dock Engineer’s workshop you would see the Port’s Tugs there undergoing afloat repairs. To starboard were the three jetties of the dock where timber, iron ore, pulp ect. were handled. “A” and “C” jetties were craned with fixed-jib electric cranes, but “B” jetty was un-craned.

In the south east corner of the dock was Pearson’s Corner leading to one of the two sets of locks from which ships entered and left through the old entrance to the West Harbour, which closed in 1924 but which is today, of course, the entrance to our Marina.  Ahead but slightly to port was the original dock of the West Harbour, the Coal Dock, with more staithes on its eastern side (numbers 9,10,11 and 12). There was also a large, high conveyor originally built to bunker the Furness- and Irvine-built ships and ships in ballast which had discharged in the West Docks, as well as loading the larger type of ship. At the south end of the Coal Dock was Vulcan Quay, used by Kindbergs as an afloat repair quay. Opposite the staithes was Ballast Quay, sometimes used by ships laying up. To the west of the Coal Dock was Jackson Dock. On its east side, and on the other side of Ballast Quay, was Tay Bridge coal staithes, with the quay at right angles to it having a 20-ton hydraulic crane which was used at times to load pipes. Next to this crane was No. 2 warehouse, which on the odd occasion took a cargo of grain, though it was still in use for storing a variety of commodities, though they were brought by road or rail and not by sea. The quay on the opposite side of Jackson Dock was the North Quay, sometimes used by Grays for ships which they were repairing. Across the top, west end, of Jackson Dock was Gray’s Old Yard with slipways, and the dry dock which today has H.M.S. Trincomalee completing her refurbishment in it. The quay also had a crane which Grays used for the fitting out of their ships. Today, of course, this end of the quay is the berth of the town’s Wingfield Castle, built by Grays and now refurbished and one of the tourist attractions of the Marina. At the south west corner of the dock was the entrance to Swainson Dock, alongside which was Gray’s offices. Between the Jackson dry dock and Gray’s offices was a large workshop used by Grays. It had originally been another warehouse, and on the site today is the excellent Museum of the Hartlepools. Swainson Dock entrance was also spanned by a swing bridge, known as “Racers” (probably because it took so long to move to the open position – it was very slow).

Swainson Dock

When entering Swainson Dock to port was the No. 4 warehouse, famously known as the Match Factory and which so spectacularly took fire and burnt down in 1954. Ahead was the quay behind the railway station on which and by which it was known as the “Tin Sheds”. To starboard as you came into the dock was Gray’s Swainson yard with its launch ways and a further dry dock. A ninety-degree turn to starboard past the dry dock took you into Hart Dock. In the past this dock would have been teeming with ships discharging timber.

Trade and Industry

Having completed a voyage through the dock system some notes on the trades and industry it supported might be appropriate. We have already mentioned the shipyards where Grays built many fine cargo ships and the odd tanker. They did a considerable amount of repair work and dry dock work, as well as constructing marine engines, as did Richardson Westgarth. Kindbergs and Daltons were also ship repairers on the port. The principle trade was “king” coal, mainly shipped to the south of England, but with shipments to Scotland of household and other types of coal. Export cargoes were sent to Scandinavia and Italy and the odd cargo of coke was shipped out. The import of timber was the next important commodity of the trade of the port; props for the mines, sawn wood for building construction, sleepers for the railways, skulskarp and hardwoods, pine from Canada and last but not least, timber for the Match Factory. Paper pulp was brought in for the local paper mill. Steel and iron scrap arrived for the steel works as well as large amounts of iron ore from Scandinavia and Spain. Occasionally a cargo of grain would be discharged into No. 2 warehouse and a cargo of iron or steel pipes loaded at the crane next to No. 2 warehouse. The cranes at “G” and “H” would be in use for the odd cargo of bricks arriving from Belgium. Magnesite from the Steetley works on Spion Cop was shipped using the coal spouts in the Coal Dock. Oil bunkers would arrive in small Tankers from the terminal on the River Tyne. 

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